miércoles, 24 de julio de 2013

Study 2: El alfajor

A short history and User's Guide:

(Disclaimer: this post was started (in English) a few months ago.)


In Spain, where the alfajor originated, it is traditionally made with almonds, figs and honey.  It's arrival on the Peninsula is attributed to Musa ibn Nusair in 712 A.D.  Therefor, it is not surprising that the word "alfajor is derived from the Arabic language (rather than Latin) and translates roughly to "luxury".  On the Peninsula the predecessor to the American alfajor is "alajú".  In Argentina (and Uruguay) the alfajor as we know it became popular in the mid-19th century thanks to the arrival of a large wave of Spanish immigrants.  Following it's trans-Atlantic migration, el alfajor underwent a massive transformation due to the absence of certain staple ingredients in the New World.  The mystique, however, remains.

If you've been to Buenos Aires, you won't be at all shocked to learn that Argentina is the leading consumer (worldwide) of alfajores.  So, while I'm here, I intend to do my part to help maintain that distinctive title.  As such, I have amassed a small sampling (over a period of the last two months) for purely statistical and academic purposes.

Before we start, however, let's discuss the basics:
Anatomy: Between 2-3 cookies or biscuits sandwiching a filling of dulce de leche.  This "sandwich" is typically covered with chocolate, but white chocolate as well as meringue are popular combinations as well.  Fillings range from dulce de leche to chocolate, mousse or in some cases flavored fillings like coffee creme or even lemon.
"Un simple": 2 cookies sandwiching 1 layer of dulce de leche
"Un triple": 3 cookies sandwiching 2 layers of dulce de leche




Brand: Chocoarroz
Style: Simple
Flavor: Dulce de leche
Nutritional Info: Gluten free; 119 calories; 5.9g fat (2.9g saturated fats); main ingredient is brown rice.

Packaging: 8
Appearance: 6
Texture: 5
Flavor: 4
"Fix" Satisfaction: 3

Overall Score: 5.2 / 10

Thoughts -
The "Chocoarroz" Deli Lite has a following in Buenos Aires, but if you've had one you've had one too many in my book.  As a general proponent of rice cakes I thought this little "alfajor" was going to be the answer to my dietary woes.  I was mistaken.  If you're in the mood for an alfajor "Chocoarroz" doesn't fit the bill.  The flavor, despite the double layer of "dulce de leche", is weak and barely masks the healthier yamani rice biscuit beneath.  The DDL is smooth, but dry and the chocolate (white with dulce de leche flavoring in this case) coating is paper thin. It get's a nod for a short(ish) list of ingredients, but if I'm going to do damage my waistline I intend on enjoying it.

Perks -
Multiple flavors including "Limón" and "Marroc".  Easy to find.  Price point: ARS $8 / US $1



Brand: Terrabussi
Style: Triple
Flavor: Dulce de luche with chocolate coating
Nutritional info: 269 calories; 9.3g fat (5.1 saturated fats; 0.4g trans fats)

Packaging: 6
Appearance: 7
Texture: 7
Flavor: 7
"Fix" Satisfaction: 7

Overall score: 6.8 / 10


Thoughts -
(Disclaimer: I prefer alfajores de maicena over all others).  In addition to alfajores, Terrabussi is the producer of a delightful line of tea biscuits and is one of the many branches of Kraft Foods here in South America.  What does this alfajor have going for it? Consistency.  The chocolate was in good condition despite the fact that the bottom cookie pulled away from it's layer of binding dulce de leche.  The overall flavor is good, but not spectacular.  The dulce de leche, however, was nice and smooth and although I would have liked it to be a little bit more generously filled, this is a classic.  No fireworks here, but when you're hungry at 5:30pm or 3:30am this alfajor is sure to provide the second (or third) wind that you are craving.  Nevertheless, despite the "more is more" feeling that oozes out of the wrapper I would say that a Havana's "simple" or a Cachafaz is your better bet and about half the calories for those of us who are counting (quietly to ourselves).

Perks -
Filling.  Easy to find.  Price point: ARS $7 / US $0.93*

*blue market exchange rate has dropped to $7.50)





Brand: Havana
Style: Simple
Flavor: Dulce de leche with chocolate coating
Nutritional info: 206 calories; 7g fat (3.9g saturated fat)

Packaging: 6
Appearance: 8
Texture: 9
Flavor: 8
"Fix" satisfaction: 9

Overall score: 8.0/10

Thoughts -
Havana is generally considered the "king" of alfajores here in Argentina, but for purely political reasons (I'm a Chachafazista*) I've remained a skeptic.  Over the past two years, I have had my fair share of brands, but something about the popularity of Havana's "me cayó mal" / "didn't sit well with me".  Until now.  Havana's are produced in Mar de Plata, a beach side city a few hours from Buenos Aires, and sold in kiosko's as well as official "Havana" cafes and pop-up kiosks from downtown to Ezeiza.  They offer a nice line of products including a new novelty: bags of miniature alfajores that would go splendidly in my (hypothetical) lunchbox.  When tourists visit Buenos Aires, very often, their only run-in with an alfajor is at Havana's and so the reputation has grown, not unmerited, by word of mouth and by trails of cookie crumbs left the world over.  A post about alfajores would not be complete, however, without mentioning Havana's so I swallowed my Cachafazian pride* and picked up the classic: dulce de leche with chocolate coating on my way home from classes.  Upon opening the Willy Wonka style golden wrapper (a thrill in itself) I was shocked to find the chocolate shiny and in great condition.  Quick work with my pilfered butter knife revealed a dense, generous filling of dulce de leche which was incredibly smooth.  The ratio of cookie to dulce de leche was about 1/3 which is saying something.  The flavor was subtle and not overly sweet. Conveniently, Havana's are sold in boxes of 8 or 10, but per my personal experience you're better off buying a few individually wrapped alfajores and nestling them in your clean socks to get them home in one piece. Something in the quality is lost in the "tourist-friendly" pre-packaged boxes, I think.  At about $1 an alfajor, this "less economical" option is still pretty affordable.

Perks: Multiple flavors including coffee, chocolate and meringue.  Generous filling.  Price point: ARS $8.50 / US $1.06



*Cachafaz is another popular mid-range brand of alfajores that offers a number of similar products.




Conclusions: 
Further investigation is required.



As of August 13th I will gladly take orders for delivery.


Con la panza llena / "with a full tummy",
Sarita 

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