Tango Safari: Neotango

Zapatos de baile / Dancing shoes:

Here in Argentina you don't often say "tienda" / "shop", but more often "negocio/business" and still more frequently "casa" / "house".  Used loosely, you can say "una casa de ropa" meaning a particular business that sells clothing.

Still more confusingly, you often see "Ventas por Mayor" or "Ventas por Menor" which I thought for a long time meant for grown-ups ( "gente mayor" ) and for children ( "menores de edad" ).

I was wrong.

Actually, it means "Ventas por Mayor" / "wholesale" and "Ventas por Menor" / "retail".

Luckily, the world of tango is infinitely simpler.  All you really have to remember is that the word "tacos" means "high heels" here rather than a corn tortilla sandwiching meat, beans and veggies. There are probably a hundred or more different shops that sell tango shoes, clothing and accessories in Buenos Aires, but the big guns are few and distinguished.  I had planned on discussing my top three shops in a single post, but I've decided that they each deserve their moment in the sun.

So have a little patience, please.  Even if you've been dying to hear about GretaFlora (Katie), just remember: good things come to those who wait.

Like these...

Neotango:

Alright, I will admit it: I'm a sucker for Neotango.  I've never been the same since that first black t-strap pair with the red suede sole found it's way into my sweaty palms last January.  The truth is that shoes from Neotango are the most comfortable I've ever had and I've tried on probably a dozen brands in the last year and half.  While other girls cram into a size too small to fit The-Brand-That-Can't-Be-Mentioned I prefer to slip into these:



After a few scouting trips into the store on Sarmiento one of the attendants, Ariel, spilled the skinny on the arrival of a new shipment: June 26th.  I made it into the shop before lunchtime so it was not only empty, but full of the "buena onda" / "good vibes" of a happy staff drinking mate and talking tango.  If you know me, you know how hard it is for me to shop for... well, anything by myself, but Ariel - who remembered me - was more than helpful and it wasn't long before I had four or five pairs of shoes strewn out on the floor.  The brief anatomy of a tango shoe is: sole, heel, strap and heel cage.  Generally, I prefer a closed heel cage (traditional), but Ariel was convinced, as are quite a few people, that if you have lovely feet (which he said I did) than you should show them off.


"El talón abierto es lo mejor," he said / "The open heel is the best."

The underlying message was plain: "Open heel shoes are more sexy."

I took the hint.

I'd seen this red pair before, but in a plain, bright red patent leather.  Luckily, that pair wasn't available in my size (36) and my preferred heal height: (super) so I grabbed up these vermilion beauties with the "carpincho" / "capybara" detailing in "gamuza" / "suede".  I was struggling by this time, but with the look of a man who has held the hands of dozens of women in my same situation Ariel assured me that it was a no brainer.

Just then a couple of teachers - who I should have probably recognized from the pages of one tango magazine or another - came into the store in sweat pants and dance sneakers.  They dumped their coats and bags and when the kissing subsided (Argentine's are notorious for the one cheek greeting and goodbye) I made my way to the counter and made idle chit chat with the couple as to their upcoming USA tour (California, Texas, Colorado).  Was it like being among super stars?  Yes.  The fact that I was in Neotango at 11:15 in the morning meant that I was, somehow, part of the in-crowd.  My previous tour of the city last year got me more than a little street credit and in no time at all I had "leveled-up" in gaming terminology from a "novice" to "apprentice".  They even suggested a few milongas and classes which is saying a lot in a city where a dozen milongas are going on at any given time of day, night or early morning.

Review: 10/10.  Great price and value.  Helpful staff.  Extreme comfort.

Selection: Varied and constantly being updated.  They have men's shoes as well and a small collection of skirts and dresses, but let's be honest: it's about the shoes.

Hot right now: Iridescent suede accents; traditional Argentine leather designs.

Advice: Chit chat with the staff.  They will probably give you good insiders advice on milongas, classes and professors.

Vocabulario útil: 

El talón: (n). the heel (in relation to the foot)

El taco: (n). the heel (in relation to the stiletto thin heel of the shoe)

Me aprietan: "they are tight" 

Me quedan... bien: "they look good on me" or "they feel good" 

Hogar: (n). home, household

When you realize you've made a mistake:

Tuesday June 18th marked my one month anniversary in Buenos Aires.  It wasn't until today, however, that the reality of that mile marker set in.  It is shocking to think that in eight (8) more weeks I will be heading home to Richmond.  Home to Richmond.  Don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds a little... strange.

I'm not saying that it doesn't sounds good - it DOES.

In ten days I'll be moving back to Belgrano to live "en casa de familia" / "with a host family"

But, the truth that I, at least, can't handle is that I've grown rather fond of my little apartment.  Sure, it's bridging the gap between living alone and being on vacation, but that's not the point.

I've never lived "alone".  I've lived "on my own" (dime), before and I've "slummed it" and "roughed it" in a dorm before and not once - no - but twice.  

But, I've never had my own chandelier and there is something to that.

And while it is one hemisphere and a gazillion miles away from home (and by home I mean where YOU are), I've come to find my own "nido gaucho" / "little country home" here in Buenos Aires.  A place where I can enjoy a light lunch (even at 4:00pm) in a little peace and privacy.

Here, in spite of the "caos" / "chaos" of the city outside my glass always feels half full , even if it isn't.  (Which, it usually is thanks to friends in Palermo who have provided me with a well stocked little wine cabinet "por las dudas" / "just in case").

 It's a place where, whatever I've forgotten (hair dryer, curling iron, straightener or floral tape...) somehow knew I was coming and helpfully flung itself into the junk drawer.  And waited for me - patiently.  

It's a one in a million (and short/long term rentals are very popular in Buenos Aires) sort of place that even cleans itself magically on Tuesday mornings; where missing socks and slippers re-appear.  

And despite the fact that it's winter - and usually a windy something-in-the-low-to-mid-fifties - flowers are always in bloom.

Will I miss the 10:00-11:00 morning piano recitals upstairs: Probably.

Will I miss "racing" the clunky old elevator up the stairs (and winning): Yes.

Will I crave the comfort of having my own little electric stove top: Of course.

Will I wish I had slept sideways and diagonal more often to make the most of my Queen sized bed: Undoubtedly.

Am I tickled to add one more door to my collection of "Home Sweet Homes" in Buenos Aires...

  

You can  bet your last box of Ziplock bags on it!

How to "vacation" properly

Philosophy 101:

Going on vacation isn't always easy.  

In fact, it can be downright difficult.

But it doesn't have to be.  

The keys to unlocking your best vacation are simple:

1.  Stay at a friend's place.  Their apartment - even if it is just a block and a half away - will have a whole new perspective on the neighborhood.  And if you're lucky it will be double the square footage and have a soaking tub.

 2.  Go out for lunch as often as you can drag yourself out of bed before tea time. Preferably, go to my new favorite spot: "Sagardi" C/ Humberto 1 319 (San Telmo).  Enjoy the charming bar; learn a little "vasco" and devour delicious tapas like "Cream & Blue Cheese with Fiambres"; "Smoked Salmon with Shaved Pickled Onion" and "Croqueta de Jamón y Queso".  At just ARS $12 (US $1.46) a toothpick you can afford to indulge.

3.  Be friendly with the locals.   You can meet charming people (or animals) anywhere - even in the local cemetery.

4.  Have a dinner party for 8 at least once.  Setting the table with someone else's textiles, charming silver and market fresh flowers is like playing Martha Stewart Living.  Plus, you should always make good use of a top of the line dishwasher when you come across one - especially in Argentina. What better way to make sure the machine is working properly than by loading it up with every last piece of dinnerware?

5.  Happy Hour.  Make it your excuse to try some local delicacies you might not get at home.  Gancia is generally defined as an mild, herbal aperitif served on the rocks, or with a little soda water here in Argentina.  For me, it's the epitome of a barely sweetened ginger ale that is as smooth as this gorgeous blue cheese from the "Fiambrería" / "deli" on Larrea.   Did I mention the cold sandwiches of prosciutto and grainy mustard that you can enjoy with the leftovers?

 The bottom line is: sleep in and...

 

6.  ...Eat well and often, but let someone else do the cooking. 

El vocabulario útil:

Estar: (v). to be (expresses location and temporary conditions/moods).

Yo estoy - I am...

Estar parando: (v). (Present Progressive form) to be staying; literally, "to be stopping" 

Example: Estoy parando en Microcentro / I am staying in Microcentro.

Estar de vacaciones: (v). to be on vacation

Example: Estoy de vacaciones

El departamento: (n). the apartment / often called, "el depto" for short