El Museo Evita + luncheon

An afternoon out for US$12:

Last year I had this imaginary list of all the things that I didn't have time to do while I was in Buenos Aires: the museums; the restaurants; the milongas.

Well, be careful what you ask for because here I am with hours (and hours) of free time on my hands and a list a mile long with places to see and things to do.  What am I waiting for?  Well, I'm not quite sure.

I've been diagnosed as a "Classic Ambivert" which sounds as wild and exotic as it does scientific and of paramount importance.  Simply, it means: "a person who is intermediate between an extrovert and an introvert."

Which explains a lot.  But, I decided that since the sun was shining and temperatures had stabilized around 17 degrees (64 degrees F) that my extroverted side and I needed to go on an outing.

And while we were at it, why not go to a place toted for it's lovely garden and affordable prices: "Museo Evita".  The museum was just a short ride away on No. 37 (folks, that is US $.20 one way) and located in a beautiful old mansion that was once a half-way house for women from the interior.  With three floors; a tower and a beautiful refurbished (and heated) outdoor garden it makes for a delightful afternoon.

The museum itself was arranged nicely and included a collection of photos, papers, clothing from Eva's life.  Reviews said that it cast a heavy handed halo over Evita who, surprisingly, isn't always received with the same zeal that we might imagine.  One of the first rooms is darkened and lined with mirrors and dedicated to a short film with scenes from Evita's funeral procession.  It set the tone for the museum which is beautifully arranged and set to some Bajofondo Tango Club music and if you keep your ears open, it is almost impossible to get lost.  The arrangement is chronological and has placards in English and Spanish. 

The museum then does a back track of Evita's life and life works including women's suffrage as well as the establishment of orphanages and half-way houses for distressed women from interior provinces.  Sure, her Peronist agenda was undeniable (see photo), but in this case the power play of politics didn't sour the milk for me.  In fact, by the last room of the exhibit I had to hold back some unexpected tears as the details of her (sudden) death at the age of 33 unfolded via a tasteful video montage and audio clips. 

In her final speech Evita asks God to let her return to good health not for her sake, but for her husband's (queue tears).  Still more sadly, Evita's remains where hidden away by succeeding governments and then shipped (in disguise) to her husband in Spain until they were reclaimed by the Argentine government in the last ten years and laid to rest (finally) in Recoleta cemetery here in Capital Federal.  


Was it worth US $2.43 to get in?  Of course.  I would certainly do the guided tour if I went again, but you have to sign up for that in advance.

To make it up to myself, however, I had lunch at the museum café.  I had the "Menú del día" (US $8.29) which gives you the option of beef or chicken or the "cazuela" / "stew" or "casserole".  I am a "cazuela" kind of girl so I didn't bat an eye when the waitress said it was "albondigas de carne con arroz" / "meatballs and rice".  Other than the celery, carrots, peppers, onions and tomato in the sauce, there was not a vegetable to be seen.  Except for the homemade potato chips that came as part of a garnish along with some peppery microgreens.  The rice was a little heavy on cream and butter - to the point of becoming a risotto - but, generally, it was: yum.

The daily special comes with bread; water or a soft drink; the main course and either dessert OR coffee.  Obviously, there was no question: 

Dessert (a short crust filled with chocolate mousse; orange peel and some... wait for it... pistachios), along with a little white chocolate sauce.  It was decidedly not your typical Argentine dessert.  Was it spectacular?  By bite number three the wild extravagance of pistachios and orange peel had run it's course so you'll be happy to know that I didn't finish it.  

I sat in the heated gazebo on the patio side of things at one of the little tables nestled just so that I could watch my fellow diners (most of whom were having tea and medialunas since it was 3:30pm).  I made some cultural notes as well as a few recordings of ambient sound (per someone's suggestion) and generally, felt like I had passed the afternoon in style.

Go me.

Vocabulario útil:

sentarse: (v). seat yourself 

cazuela: (n).  stew or casserole 

cacerolazo: (n).  a demonstration where protesters bang on pots and pans

tomar: (v). to take / to drink 

una guarnición: (n). a side dish / NOT a garnish