Getting away in Uruguay

Colonia and Montevideo:

Has it really been that long since I posted anything?  Wow.  You'll have to forgive me - I have been taking wonderful photos to show you.  

Take a trip with me to Uruguay - my most recent getaway.  Although Colonia is a popular crossing point for Visa dodging tourists (less than an hour by speed boat ferry from Bs As) it really does warrant a visit.  Luckily, I had to the chance to go with a friend of mine over the weekend: 

We caught the 8:30am ferry from Puerto Madero, and after going through some very haphazard customs, we boarded our boat right on (Argentine) time: 9:00.  Even though there were no seats left on board, we enjoyed sipping coffees at one of the cafe tables near the center of the ship.  It was, possibly, my favorite part of the trip.... well, at least as far as traveling goes.

We got to Colonia and quickly booked bus tickets to Montevideo for that evening.  Once the logistics were out of the way we were free to enjoy the beautiful weather (clear, breezy and only about 72 degrees)...

Colonia is one of only a few places that still feels charming, laid back and inviting even when it's up to its eyeballs in Easter weekend tourists.

Antique cars abound in Colonia - making it even more quaint.

We shared a traditional asado (or paradilla I'm not sure) for two at this cafe complete with cow: brains, intestine, ribs, liver and the welcome sausage... and not so welcome blood sausage.  The biggest language barrier I have come across in Latin America so far has been on restaurant menus - of all things.   Although I asked specifically if "salchicas" (sausages) came with the entree - and the waiter replied no - look what made it to our table with the  rest of our half a cow... sausages.  That said... thank goodness.

One can only eat so much brain in public.

Did I mention that there was also a liberal liter and half of sangria to help... wash it down.  Thank goodness.

Although summer may be a more popular time to go... early fall is the perfect time to see Colonia.

The Rio de la Plata has a beautiful "ocean" style breeze and plenty of majestic look out points to relax and enjoy the quiet that only a small town can provide.

In Montevideo the color clears up a bit, but I sort of like to imagine it as a dreamy "sea" of chocolate milk.  On clear days you can see the coast of Uruguay - which is lush and green and studded with rocks - from Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires.  In Montevideo (the capital of Uruguay) the river opens up even more and becomes, more or less, it's own little ocean.

The trip to Montevideo - about two and a half hours by bus - was only made less enjoyable by the constant coughing on a small toddler who, apparently, had la gripe recently.  Although it made me nervous, I vowed to drink some delightful immune system boosting tea (newly arrived in a delightful care package) as soon as I set foot back in Buenos Aires.  Otherwise, the seats were comfortable and the driver didn't drive like a bat out of hell like some others so we even caught a little shut eye before getting to the "big city".

Our first priority in Montevideo: dinner; luckily, "chivitos" are a traditional Uruguayan dish and they are, without a doubt, the most delicious thing I've eaten so far in my time South of the Border.

Thinly pounded chicken breast, grilled to perfection, sandwiched by lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, green olives, ham, cheese and about two and half hard boiled eggs.  The bun was liberally toasted too - just the way I like it.  A chivito is sort of whatever the chef/house declares it to be.  At another restaurant it came on a plate (no bun) with ham, cheese, a fried egg and lots of shredded vegetables to pile on top.  You wouldn't believe it, but it is really delectable.  Get ready... because when I get back there is going to be a serious Chivito Movement in Richmond Virginia.

                                

I was convinced that despite Hollywood's best effort, I would not be scared away from staying in my first hostel.  "La Posada del Sur" was rated superb so I figured why not give it a go!  After all, it was only for one night.  Although Ciudad Vieja is a little sketchy after midnight - and not a place to be out and about during the wee hours of the morning - the hostel was as clean as it was charming.  It is also "sustainable" and featured an amazing breakfast of home baked organic breads, succulent jams (including a kiwi walnut that was to die for) and local butter.  The rooftop patio - resplendent with hammocks and some squat wooden deck furniture - paired beautifully with a bottle of rose after a day of seeing the sites.

In Ciudad Vieja looking out over Rio de la Plata.

I tentatively stalked around in the surf at this beach downtown just because it was *that* inviting.  I even picked through some shells and stones that had washed up in little nests on the shore.  There are paved river walkways (called Ramblas) that run along the main road, more or less, all around the city.  The side walks were packed with people drinking mate, taking a stroll with friends or just lazily fishing.   Although the water was a bit chilly, I don't think I could have imaged a more perfect weekend to have visited Uruguay...

...Even if I left more than a little bit tired and foot-sore.